I want to share my experience at the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, a place that, although small, has a special charm. Located on the banks of the Manzanares River, it is easy to reach by getting off at the Príncipe Pío station and walking for about 8 minutes. However, I must be honest: the walk from the metro is not exactly the most attractive. The surroundings feel somewhat neglected, far from the charm one would expect in a city like Madrid.
When I arrived at the hermitage, I was surprised by how small it is. In just 5 or 10 minutes, you can walk through it and see everything. The entrance is free of charge, and it’s nice that visitors are invited to enter with a gesture of gratitude, which encourages you to connect with the history and spirituality of the place. Although it is no longer used as a hermitage, but as a museum, a twin hermitage was built next door to preserve its religious function, thus preventing the deterioration of the frescoes and respecting the resting place of Goya, whose remains are laid to rest here.
One detail to keep in mind is that photography and video are not allowed. While this can be frustrating, it also gives you the opportunity to fully appreciate the moment and the beauty without distractions.
What stands out in this neoclassical hermitage are the frescoes by Goya, which adorn the vault and the sides. These works depict scenes from the life of St. Anthony of Padua, including the miracle in which the saint raises a man from the dead to prove his father’s innocence in an unjust trial. It’s fascinating how Goya captures the devotion of the people with his distinctive style.
Standing in front of his tomb, I couldn’t help but think about the tragedy of his death, the transfer of his body to Madrid, and the mystery surrounding his head. I imagined the tomb as a glass urn, where I could see Goya in his white habit with the red cross of Malta, headless, resting in a deep sleep, while his frescoes surrounded him.
If you have the chance to visit the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, I highly recommend it. Although it’s small, its history and art will leave a lasting impression on you.
